Spirit of Adventure .org
Lochaber 2007

 

Crossing Rannoch Moor

 

 

 

 

Wednesday 8th August

After a peaceful night (at least, dad thought it was peaceful though Peter accused him of snoring) we awoke to a brilliant blue sky without a cloud in sight. Going outside to take a look, we could see the mountains far into the distance across Rannoch, in a beautiful peace of the early morning. We strolled along to the railway station, where rabbits nibbled at the grass, walked down the line a little, took a few photos, then returned to a cooked breakfast and the most delicious scotch pancakes, freshly cooked and warm.

 

 

(above: Peter in front of the Moor of Rannoch Hotel... below: early morning view across Rannoch)

(above: Peter at Rannoch Station on a perfect morning, just before breakfast)

 

We packed our rucksacks and set off to cross Rannoch Moor, our destination: Glencoe. The early miles were through forests, and there was a cooling breeze that kept away the midges the whole day. At the end of the forest, Loch Laidon stretched onwards, the sunlight sparkling on the water, and to the east the shapely outline of Schiehallion.

 

(Above: About to set off - Loch Laidon in the background)

Now we were into trackless moorland, and the going through the bogs was slow and frequently damp. This was rough going, especially with full packs, but the day was beautiful: almost perfect conditions. Midday passed as we headed slowly westwards, meandering round black bogs and sponge-like tussocks of grass and moss. Peter's socks got wet, and dad slipped over, soaking the seat of his trousers (twice). Around one we were in the middle of the moor and stopped for lunch in the warm sunshine. The silence and peace were incredible.

 

(Above: the trackless wilds of Rannoch Moor... Below: Peter on the Moor, with Stob Coire Odhar behind his head)

 

(Above: Dad in the middle of Rannoch Moor... Below: Peter in the middle of Rannoch Moor)

 

Then onwards with the Glencoe mountains coming into sight as the route veered round the hillside. We could see the great mass of the Buchaille Etive Mor, standing guard over the twin openings to Glen Etive and Glencoe. Finally we reached the rough outline of a primitive landrover track (two parallel lines of water and bog) and as the track improved we increased speed, taking a detour round a 'private' shooting lodge, then downhill all the long (and by now quite weary) way to the Kingshouse where we were staying. We booked in, then Peter had a cola and a choclate fudge cake with ice-cream, while dad had cranachan with a large pot of tea which quenched his thirst.

 

(Above: Pete rounding the hill, with Buchaille Etive Mor coming into sight)

(Above: We reach the landrover track which leads to Glencoe... Below: Peter at the Kingshouse)

 

After that they went outside to the River Etive, and Peter beat dad 4-3 at racing rival clumps of heather down the stream while bombarding the opposition with rocks. We skimmed stones, and Peter also beat dad 4-3 at a game where you had to throw stones onto a rock in the river and try to knock your opponent's off. By now the skies had clouded over a bit and the sun had gone in, so we headed back to the hotel, had supper and played pool (Peter also won this, 2-1). Peter checked the weather forecast and they predict rain for tomorrow - we shall have to wait and see. We retired to our room and the card matches continued. Final score by the end of this evening: Peter 152. Dad 151. Then to bed where we would soon be asleep after our energetic day in the warm sunshine.

It had been a classic day on Rannoch Moor. We didn't meet a single person the whole way over. No-one in twelve miles (though the bogs made it feel more like fifteen miles). The weather had been stunning and the views stretched for miles in all directions. We had started our adventure in Scotland on a perfect August day.

 

next section: the Buchaille Etive Mor