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Lochaber 2007

 

The Buchaille Etive Mor

 

 

 

 

Thursday 9th August

Contrary to the gloomy weather forecast, that had predicted heavy rain, we awoke to a stunning morning with clear blue skies, except for small wisps of white mist that drifted across the nearby mountains before evaporating. Peter and dad were up around seven, taking photographs and admiring the views, before going indoors for an excellent breakfast. This included fruit juice, porridge, toast, fried egg and sausages, bacon and tomato. It also included for dad about eight cups of tea.

 

(Above: Peter in front of the Buchaille in the early morning sun... Below: The Kingshouse)

We packed light rucksacks and set off down the glen, with the intention of taking a look at the Buchaille Etive Mor (gaelic for the Big Shepherd of Etive). The first two miles were probably the most life-threatening as we walked along the main road, facing the lorries, motorbikes, caravans and campervans hurtling at us from the opposite direction. But it was a beautiful sunny morning.

We passed the climbers' cottage at Lagangarbh and, shortly afterwards, left the road and followed the River Coupall between the big Buchaille and the little Buchaille up a valley that led eventually over a pass towards Glen Etive. However, after a mile or two we cut off left to follow a stream that flowed down from the high ridge of the Buchaille Etive Mor. The route at first was straightforward, but there was some good scrambling higher up before we eventually reached the summit ridge.

 

(Above: View north from the Buchaille ridge)

Here the wind was blowing and superb views opened out in a 360° panorama. In one direction we could see Ben Nevis. In another Glen Etive. In the distance, Ben Cruachan. And to the east, the wild expanse of Rannoch Moor stretched for miles with Schiehallion rising in the distance. The view was spectacular.

 

(Above: Pete with the view east across Rannoch Moor which we had crossed the previous day)

We then headed down by the same route we had taken on the ascent, stopping for a snack by a waterfall where dad took about 30 pictures of the gushing water and pure transparent pools.

 

(Above: We stopped for lunch by a mountain stream)

Then we trudged down the glen, trying to dodge the peat bogs, though Peter was amused when one of dad's feet went right in. By now we felt relaxed in the sunshine and the beautiful countryside around us, the scent of bog myrtle everywhere, bilberries ripe on their low-lying bushes, the heather turning purple - and the light radiant everywhere on the water. Thirty metres before reaching the road, Peter fell in a bog much to dad's amusement, then we struck a lay-by where about fifty foreign tourists had got off a coach for a few minutes to take photos and look at us with mystification as we emerged from the bogs, Peter splattered in mud.

 

(Above: Peter after we'd come down, with Lagangarbh behind him, and Rannoch beyond)

We headed up the glen, avoiding the main road and following the old military road, which took us up to 1000 feet before leading us down to the Kingshouse and a cola for Peter, about ten cups of tea for dad. Heaven. Then we went down to the stream to start our contests. After yesterday's disasters, dad was in much better form (apart from an emerging blister on his foot). The skimming stones contest: what more needs to be mentioned than dad's opening stone which bounced nine times and remained the unbeaten winning throw. In the stones-onto-a-rock-in-the-river game, Peter came from behind to win 2-1 after 35 throws each. Then we went indoors for supper, with lots of chips and cola and wine. Dad came from behind to win the pool 2-1 (though this was more because Peter sank the black by mistake, than because of dad's natural skills). Finally we retired to the bedroom where we continued the cards. By the end of the evening the score stood at Peter 159 Dad 151. Then it was time to sleep. We needed a prompt start in the morning, to cover twelve miles to Bridge of Orchy, in time to catch the afternoon train to Fort William.

 

next section : over the hill to Bridge of Orchy